Malaysia 2002/2003

KL:
KLIA (Kuala Lumpur International Airport) can be reached by fast train from KL Sentral train station (a bit south-west from downtown).
Air baggage can be checked in at the train station. Bicycles not. To bring a bicycle to the airport, you might want to call a Taxi driver with a wagon, for example Yusman Ahmad. Call his mobile (601-23616244) or home (603-42977226), or e-mail YusmanAhmad@hotmail.com. He charges the regular RM65.
If you need a van, contact "Premier Taxi" company (03-90581166). Costs a bit more than a regular taxi.

Bicycle shops are rare in KL, but if you go to Taman Melati in a suburb north-east of KL, you will find "Sepeda Power" and "Bicycle World". East of KL city on Jalan Ampang there's Jong Ann Bicycles, just opposite the run-down Ampang City Mall. Jong Ann has fairly nice stuff, both road and mountainbikes. To find these places, refer to my GPS waypoints.

The best place for general shopping is Sungai Wang Mall and the places in the vicinity.
Great deals can also be found at KL's night markets where I often had to bargain very, very heavily to come down to the right price. While most vendors try to sell at 300-400% of what the item is worth, a few of the vendors actually sell at the right price rightaway. To know the right price, keep in mind that most goods at the night markets are fakes, so their true value would be a little below what you'd expect to pay for a same-quality, no-name item from a super-market.

Accommodation at Backpackers Travellers Lodge was OK. Nice staff, central location at reasonable price, not that very noisy.

Temerloh:
The staff at the Fudo Hotel appears a bit weird. Hotel Isis at 12 Jln Tengku Bakar was the best budget place I found, they asked for RM20 for a basic double room with shared bathroom. Eventually, I paid just RM15.
Temerloh has an old and a new bus station. Buses to KL leave from the new station. Taxis can be found at any of the two stations.

Gemas:
Gemas has a few very unspecial hotels nearby the train station. The Rumah Rehat sits on a hill behind the police station and looks a lot better and more expensive. There's a telephone number at the reception, call to check in.

Jerantut / Taman Negara:
Green Park Guesthouse moved and took over some of the houses of the Rumah Rehat. Now it's probably the nicest place in town. You get spacious and clean double rooms with baths at RM20. The place is a bit tricky to find, ask for the rumah rehat or call them (2663884) to pick you up.
A van from Sri Emas Hotel waits at the train station and picks up travelers. The guy is pretty sticky. His rooms are neither very cheap nor very special, but you find a lot of travelers ending up there.
Both above places have Internet, bus transport to the train stn and to Kuala Tembeling. You can book tours or boats, too.
To reach Taman Negara, most people take a bus to Kuala Tembeling, then continue by boat to Kg.Kuala Tahan the Headquarter.
However, you can go all the way to Kg.Kuala Tahan by sealed road: First go east, direction Maran. Then follow the signs to Taman Negara.
It's very unlikely you see an animal at Taman Negara. During a rainy night at a hide, we saw one mouse and some bats.
The rocks in Gua Telinga cave are slippery. The nearest hospital is at Kuala Tahan, other side of the river.
Fees: Entry RM 1, camera license RM 5, overnight stay at a hide RM 5 per person.
To stay at a hide, you should book it at the HQ. Bring a mat, the hard berths are neither comfortable nor clean.

To cycle from Jerantut to Kuala Lipis, go to Kuala Tembeling first, then follow the signs to Lipis. This road has little traffic (and little tree cover, for a large part).

Kuala Lipis:
Tong Kok Hotel is simple, but well-maintained. Staff is efficient. Paid RM15 for a double with shared b/r, soap, towel.
Hotel Jelai starts at RM30 (fan room).
De Rakit Chalet has disappeared (locals said it went down the river).
At the town's mall, there's a top hotel with carpark.

Gua Musang:
To enter the cave, cross the railroad tracks and enter the kampung on the right. The trail / climb starts behind the kampung, ask the people and they show you where exactly. During the short and slippery climb to the cave, there are lots of mosquitos, apply repellant before you start. Once you got up to the entrance, you squeeze through a narrow and long gap. Inside, no mosquitos at all. Water dripping from the ceiling. Locate a very slippery rock with a rope dangling down from atop. You will want to use that rope, though it's tied to a dangerously tiny rock eyelet. Once you master this part, continue further up that slope along a second rope. Then, enjoy a look out of the front window onto Gua Musang. Now it's easy to walk through the cave and up to the back door. Just as you get outside, a marked rock on the left side lets you climb up vertically onto the roof of the cave (works best with bare feet) where you can enjoy an even better view. Go back the same way.

From Gua Musang, a new superscenic road to Cameron Highlands is being built. Almost finished in January 2003, bike or 4WD could go already. By the time you read this, you might already find public transport from Gua Musang to the highlands. Read more on this road further down.

Dabong:
The Rumah Rehat is a longhouse from the 80s, set in a nice garden. It could need some more maintenace. To stay there, ask for the man with the key, his house is nearby the mosque.

To visit Gua Ikan and Gua Kiris caves southeast of Dabong, cross the railway tracks and follow the road to the right. Walk straight for a good 3km and you will find a sign to the cave, a small lane turns right from the road. Along this lane are the remains of a recreational park consisting of a covered bridge and some huts. These buildings now receive no maintenance, crumble and get overgrown.
At the end of the lane is the cave, a river flows through it. You can walk through the cave. Shortly after you exit the cave, there's a spot where you can climb up and get inside.
Gua Kiris is across the mainroad from Gua Ikan. You enter this cave through a small stream, come out the back, climb up, enter again, walk through to the front where you exit. It's tricky to find the entrance in the jungle.
There's nothing really spectacular in these - partially very narrow and wet - caves, but the adventure feel is great. No difficult climbing needed, no bat shit. To enter, you need a flashlight and max 2 hours of batteries. Hire a guide or at least go with some experienced children. Bring one extra flashlight for your guide, usually these folks have no working light around.
An experienced guide for these caves is Mr. Rashid, his house is on the right side of the mainroad, a few hundred meters past the turnoff to Gua Ikan. Expect to pay RM 10..20 to see both caves. He speaks no English.
Gua Ikan looks like a fish from afar, hence the name.
As you walk from Dabong to the caves, there's one spot from where you can see Air Terjun Gunung Stong / Mount Stong Waterfall (right side / west).

From Dabong, a boat goes across the river to Jelawang (nearby the mosque). At the time of writing, "Dabong Bridge" is being constructed, this is a huge highway bridge, expected to be finished by 2004. Once finished, you might not need this boat.

Jelawang:
The attraction of Jelawang is Mount Stong Waterfall and what's beyond.
Perdana Stong Hill Resort, a nice place in the forest at the foot of the waterfall, has been abandoned and is falling to pieces. I was told this happened rather because of poor managment, not because of too few visitors. Local guides mentioned plans of reconstruction.
A new guesthouse has opened, Dabong Riverside Guest House. At the time of writing, this place is little known and the owner (from Kota Bharu) is most unpopular amongst the Jelawang guides.
Most visitors to Jelawang prefer to spend the night in a place called Baha's Camp. This is an extremely scenic location in the forest atop the waterfall (450m high). There are huts for rent (RM10) and you can do camping with your own tent. Best is to bring your own food, water can take from the waterfall (boil ore use tablets). Most of the time, you will find one or more guides staying at the camp. Near the camp, the waterfall offers a steep, natural waterslide. The camp has no bathrooms but several adequate spots in the waterfall. At night, candles, oil lamps and carbide lamps provide light. Very romantic with the sounds of the forest.
The founder of the camp, Baha, passed away at the age of 40-something around Oct.2002. A strange fever struck him, the people said. The local guides explained that they try to maintain it all as Baha has made it while his children grow up. When they talk of Baha, they call him their "master" and they admit that 4 of them cannot easily cope with all the things that need to be done. I've met Baha year's ago and he impressed me. This time, I was impressed by his followers. They know very well about the forest and about local politics, they have a wealth of information to offer. Their English is good.
From the camp, it's 1h walk / climb up the waterfall to a place where 2 falls merge (7th tier). Longer treks are possible, to destinations like Gg.Stong (1442m altitude), Gg.Ayam(1504m), Gg.Tera(1555m), G.Noring Timur(1888m).
To get to the camp, first go to the abandoned Perdana Stong Hill Resort (follow signs or ask). Walk through the resort, out at the back, over the crumbling suspension bridge and up the mountain. It could be tricky to find the way, we hired a guide for RM30. The way to the camp is very steep though not tricky to climb. It takes a little over 1h for a strong guy. We took 1.5h and it was tough.
Note there are wild animals in this forest (some small ones might come into the huts). Our guide carried a big knife on the way up, in fear of tigers.

Dabong to Jeli:
Air Terjun Renyok (GPS: Renyok) can be found about 1km west of the mainroad, ask for directions in the village just south of the Sg Renyok bridge. At the time of writing, there was a little recreational park around the Renyok River Rapids, with huts and paths neglected and only locals visiting there. Just nice for a break if you happen to be in the area.

Jeli:
Accommodationwise, this place is bad. The Rumah Rehat consists of several huts on stilts, attached to a restaurant. The charge is RM40 per night. For this you get a large double room with attached bath, color TV (receives 1 channel), fan, towels. Huts are in a bad condition, it's noisy and dirty. Price is not negotiateable.
Alternatively, try the Pergau Electricity Company's resort. Clean and luxurious, they mostly rent out large houses. However, there are a few individual rooms as well. To check in, visit the building with the pool (kolam air) and find someone at the reception. Chances are you find nothing but a mobile phone number (019 9420767). Use your mobile to call this number. If you don't have a mobile, you will soon learn that virtually all public phones in Jeli are defective. You might stop a car and borrow the driver's mobile.
The most relevant thing in Jeli is the junction. There's a gas station, some restaurants and shops nearby.

Jeli to Pulau Banding:
It's a mountain road with some traffic, but cycling is OK on the hard shoulder.
A few km west of Jeli, northern side of the road, there's a gate that reads "Air Panas Jeli". Go thru the gate, follow the steep but sealed road down for less than 1 km and find a hot spring plus some huts, houses, a little bridge. There's a cold stream, too. Unfortunately the place has been abandoned and neglected, the hot pools are filled with dirt. The best place for a dip is below the 3rd pool, where the hot water merges with the cold stream. Back to the mainroad, I asked a lady why this place has been discontinued; she mentioned there was a better hot spring on Tanah Merah side, Jeli couldn't compete.
If you happen to pass Air Panas Jeli, spend a few minutes and check it out. At this time it's OK for a picnic away from the road, for a short dip in the water and possibly even for camping.
As you climb towards the highest point of this mountain road, you'll pass a waterfall, equipped with car park and warung(s).
Eventually, you reach this highest point (puncak), altitude 1080m. Enjoy the cool breeze, a great view if the weather allows, the car park, the toilets, the pricey kiosk / warung. Many motorists and tour busses stop here to take photos, snacks and drinks.
Along the way down to Tasik Temenggor / Pulau Banding, you'll pass some more waterfalls.

Pulau Banding:
Places of interest, from the east:
- Mohamad Shah Resort, just before the eastern bridge. Follow the signs / the small lane that goes off the mainroad (left side) and down to the water. Mohamad Shah Resort is popular with anglers. A basic floating hut rents out for RM 40 / night. Some Orang Asli work for the resort.
- Fish Farm. A huge complex just before the eastern bridge, right side of the road. Being constructed in Dec.2002, propably finished by the time you read this.
- The eastern bridge
- Public harbour / jetty, (just being constructed Dec.2002) 
- Gas station (Petronas)
- Banding Island Resort (rooms are RM 85 to RM 150, very nice). The resort offers all sorts of activities. Adventurers can rent kayaks. To contact the resort: 05-7921791/92 or banding@tm.net.my
- The western bridge
- Army camp, just after the western bridge on the right side.
- Guide office, a cute bamboo hut on the left side after the army camp, opposite the restaurants. These guys can organize tours, give information, buy / sell fish and strange things from the jungle (collected by Orang Asli). The office is run by registered guide Mr Tarmizei, contact him at 05-7911877 (office) or 05-7914197 (home)

There are a number of non-conventional ways to spend the night on Pulau Banding / Tasik Temenggor. This time I went night fishing with some of the guides and slept the rest of the night in their floating house. They mentioned they had some huts on one of the smaller islands, another overnight option for adventurers.
Night fishing was uneventful but still exciting for someone who rarely does it. We went to a remote place of the lake, with jungle and animals around us. The fish were carefully kept in plastic bags with oxygen supplied. We didn't plan to eat them, but instead sell them alive.
Common fish of lake Temenggor (and many other Tasik):
- Ikan Toman (Giant Snakefish, very nice to eat)
- Ikan Baung (Catfish, also nice to eat)
- Ikan Kelah (Marshallfish, beautiful for the aquarium, expensive, edible too)

I intended to rent a kayak at Banding Island Resort, then explore the lake in a trip of several days. I had brought camping gear, lights, maps and GPS, with a plan to spend the nights on islands and at Orang Asli settlements. Well, I ran out of time and skipped this adventure, but the lokal guides considered it well worth the effort. I was told there'd be nightly police checks on the water and I needed a permit from the Gerik police to travel north of Pulau Banding (towards Thailand). Next time.

Pulau Banding to Gerik:
Continued mountain road, more down than up. A few rest stops / waterfalls can be found along the road. Traffic gets more near Gerik.

Ipoh:
Hollywood Hotel at 72-76 Jalan C.M.Yusuff offers luxury for the budget traveler: Double room w/ attached b/r, hot water, TV, for RM 36.80 (service charge and tax included). Not really international standard but spacious and everything working. Friendly staff.

Mr.K.S.Chan from Banwa Computer Systems at 160 Jln Pasir Puteh was able to transfer my digital photos to a CD. He also prints digital photos on paper.

Perak Tong Temple's stairs are great exercise. Very few people manage to run up to the pavilions on the top without a break. On the way up, monkeys entertain the visitors. Once on top, one is rewarded by a cool breeze and nice view. Cost: Entering the main chamber of the cave is free, but access to the stairs leading up requires a donation.

Tambun Hot Springs were planned to become part of a large development called "Sunway City" (housing areas, malls, schools, golf course,..). The project came to a halt during the Asian crisis a few years ago, recently it restarted slowly.
To find the spot, follow GPS or ask locals. The springs are located behind a large, neglected concrete building at the back of a construction site, not too far from a golf course. Signs suggest a "5-Star Spa Resport (proposed)". The hot pools are right behind the building. 
For a bath, enter the building, pay RM 5 entry at the bar, then proceed to the water. The pools themselves as well as the park around them are actually quite nice and clean. Snacks and drinks are available, too.

Cameron Highlands:
The old road from Kg.Batu Melintang to the highlands is narrow, long and winding, while not too steep. Cycling this road to the highlands would be little fun due to the amount of traffic that squeezes thru. You'll be in the way of busses and trucks. A speedy run down from the highlands should be quite OK, haven't done it though.
Generally, the highlands are rather cold and rainy while car population has a surprisingly high share of old Land-Rovers.
Between Tanah Rata and Brinchang, there's a walkway for pedestrians.
Tanah Rata is extremely touristic. It has good food but no bicycle shop. Construction of a mall was started several years ago, it went bankrupt before it ever opened.
Some notes on Tanah Rata accommodation:
Cameronian Inn is most popular with families but individual travelers could consider their dorm for RM6 / bed.
Daniel's, I found cramped with backpackers.
Father's as well is mostly backpackers, while the setting and staff are nicer and the backpackers there are the better ones (those that were tough enough to carry their backpacks up the hill). Lonely Planet mentions a "long flight of stone steps". Staff pointed out that there's a road too, cyclists should not work their way up the stairs.

Cameron Highlands to Gua Musang / to Ipoh (new, direct road):
At the time of writing (January 2003), it is already possible to cycle the new road from the highlands directly westwards to Ipoh or eastwards to Gua Musang. The road is not yet complete, so this is partially offroad riding. From Tanah Rata, follow signs to Blue Valley until you reach Kg.Raja. There you will find signs to Ipoh and Gua Musang.
It's a scenic 125km ride from Tanah Rata to Gua Musang. A 4WD takes 2.5 hours. Plan a full day by mountainbike, start early. The road is partially dusty or muddy, some stretches are very busy with heavy trucks. There's little protection from the sun. Along the way are Orang Asli villages with Samai people. Many of these have been civilized to an extend that they talk Malay, wear clothes, eat rice and ride motorbikes. If needed, food, drink and a place to sleep can be found at the camps of the construction workers. When cycling, keep in mind that the highlands are quite a bit higher than Gua Musang.
Once construction of all bridges has been completed and the road is fully sealed, the trip could be quite a bit shorter and definitely much easier. By the time you read this, you might already be able to travel from Ipoh directly to Gua Musang on public transport.

Tasik Chini:
Orang Asli at Tasik Chini increasingly adopt a modern lifestyle with video and alcohol. They gradually turn the forest around the lakes into oil plantages. From the water you don't see much of this, but the jungle trails have to be carefully planned so that visitors still get the illusion of a large rainforest.
If you book a Tasik Chini lake tour, make sure the river trip up Sungai Chini to the floodgate near Sungai Pahan is included. This is the best part. The lakes themselves are rather unexciting unless you are fishing.
Accommodation in Tasik Chini: Tasik Chini Resort and Kg Gumum with several guesthouses.
- Tasik Chini Resort: Camping RM3, Tent rental RM15, Dorm RM15, Standard room RM80, Deluxe Room RM100
- Kg.Gumum, Mr.Rajan Jones' House: RM18 per person in a longhouse. Includes 3-4 homecooked meals.
- Kg.Gumum, Kijang Mas Gumum Chalet: Chalet w/ bath RM30, Chalet w/ shared bath RM25, Dorm RM10
- A third operation in Gumum has closed, not sure if / when it will reopen.
Shopping options (!) in Kg.Gumum:
- Small Chinese shop selling everything people need, including cheap whiskey (drunk by Orang Asli)
- Every morning, a truck selling food stops near the school.
- Every few days, Mr.Rajan Jones drives his old car to the market at Chini Town. He takes passengers.
Where to wash / take a bath:
- The jetty of Kg.Gumum
- A small pool under the long bridge behind the village center of Kg.Gumum
- The handpump in Kg.Gumum village center
- Your guesthouse / resort
Mr.Rajan Jones' is the inoffical "operator" of the lake. When visitors turn up in Gumum, everyone sends them to his house. He and his wife Cikgu Nee offer various tourist services (accommodation, food and drink, tours, taxi, he even has some tools in case you need to fix your bike). Rajan Jones is deeply involved in community activities and it's surely worth the time of a chat with him. He has a wealth of information on what is happening around the lakes and in Malaysia, generally. He's an honest and constructive person, always happy to help. His English is excellent. Until there's a telephone line or GMS coverage in Kg.Gumum, e-mail Rajan Jones for any matter regarding the village or a planned visit: jones_rajan@hotmail.com (note the underscore). He is reading his e-mail about once per week.
Don't miss my collection of GPS waypoints and tracks of Tasik Chini.

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